Background Music: "Alabama Getaway" by The
Grateful Dead
Montgomery, the capital city of Alabama, and a major player in the
histories of both the Civil War and Civil Rights Movement.
Montgomery is one of the nicer capital cities we’ve seen so far- clean,
safe, interesting and easy to get around in. The Capitol building itself
is beautiful with white marble steps, high columns and iron railings.
Everything has a very Southern feel. Like many capitols, this building
holds its share of history, but it has a distinction like no other. This
was the birthplace of the Confederate States of America. It was here
that the provisional government of the Confederate States was
established in February 1861. In that same year, Jefferson Davis was
inaugurated as president of the C.S.A. on the front steps.
These same front steps would see history of a different kind a century
later when, in 1965, the Selma to Montgomery Voting Rights March, led by
the Reverend Martin Luther King, Jr., ended there. Just a few blocks
down the street, more civil rights history was made. On the corner of
Lee and Montgomery, Rosa Parks took a stand against segregation by
refusing to give up her bus seat to white passengers. We visited the
Rosa Parks museum on that site and learned about the events leading up
to Ms. Parks challenge against racism, the bus boycott that followed,
and the eventual desegregation that took place. Rosa Parks was just one
of the many individuals honored as taking part in a courageous stand
against inequality.
Thankfully, much has changed in Montgomery since those dark days of
segregation and Civil War. The memorials to the Civil Rights Movement
are done in a way that reminds us to treat everyone with respect and
dignity, regardless of color, gender or religion. The Confederate sites,
like all those we’ve seen in the South, are more of a commemoration of
Southern heritage. There’s no apology, no “lesson learned”, instead
Confederate flags hang proudly and memorials are built in bittersweet
remembrance of times long past. As Northerners, we’re not sure what to
think of this. Honestly, we don’t really get it, and we’re not sure if
we would like the explanation if we did get it. Because of our ignorance
on the subject, we try to hold our judgment, but can’t help but think
there must be some here who find offense. There’s obviously much more to
this story that we don’t know.
What we did find was that people here are very nice, and hold no grudge
against us “Northerners”. In fact, they’re nicer than we’re used to- and
we spent a month in Texas, so that’s saying a lot! A couple of times we
found ourselves wondering if maybe the person we were talking to was
trying to sell us something. But it never happened. Also, we found out
that we stick out like sore thumbs here- we had no idea. In one part of
town we walked past a road crew. One of the crew stopped his work,
smiled at us and asked, “What Northern State are you from?” He gestured
to what we were wearing, and we guessed that our summer clothes on a
“cold” 78 degree day had given us away. He offered a handshake and
welcomed us to Montgomery. Another lady, passing us in a car, saw that
we were taking pictures, stopped and yelled out her window, “Where are
you from?” It was, honestly, a little strange- but we went with it. We
told her we’re from Oregon, and she actually offered to get out of her
car and take a picture of us together. We declined, joking that “we
already know what we look like”. I’m sure she was just friendly and not
crazy at all. It’s sad when kindness makes you wary, and you can’t just
accept it for what it is. Maybe our skepticism will serve us better when
we get to places like New York City.